{"id":643,"date":"2016-06-14T17:51:54","date_gmt":"2016-06-14T17:51:54","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/whiteflower1.wpengine.com\/?p=643"},"modified":"2023-07-12T19:44:45","modified_gmt":"2023-07-12T19:44:45","slug":"caring-for-your-vegetable-plants","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.whiteflowerfarm.com\/blog\/2016\/06\/14\/caring-for-your-vegetable-plants\/","title":{"rendered":"Caring for Your Vegetable Plants"},"content":{"rendered":"

With the vegetable gardening season in full swing, we checked in with our Nursery Manager Barb Pierson to get some helpful tips on caring for edibles plants to encourage plant health and maximum yields. Here\u2019s her advice<\/em>:<\/p>\n

\"1a\"
Early Summer in White Flower Farm’s Kitchen Garden<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Watering<\/strong><\/p>\n

In general, with tomatoes and most other edibles, you want to water the soil<\/em>, not the plant<\/em>. \u201cYou\u2019re also supposed to do it in the morning,\u201d Pierson says, because that allows any leaves that do get wet to dry in the sun during the day, but not all of us have time to get the watering done in the morning so, if need be, do your watering later in the day, being careful to keep the foliage as dry as possible.<\/p>\n

\u201cIf you have drip irrigation, do not run it all day, every day,\u201d Pierson says. The flavor of tomatoes is vastly improved by letting the soil dry out a bit. If you keep the hose going, \u201cyou\u2019ll have water bombs instead,\u201d Pierson says. \u201cA little bit of flagging in the plants is OK. They get a silvery color, and they start to droop just a little bit.\u201d That\u2019s when you water.<\/p>\n

TOMATOES<\/p>\n

\"pruning
Pruning Tomato Growth<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Pruning<\/strong><\/p>\n

\u201cEverybody does something different,\u201d Pierson says. Once, on a visit to a local botanic garden, Pierson saw tomato plants that \u201cdidn\u2019t have a leaf left on them,\u201d she laughs. \u201cI said [to the staff], \u2018What are you doing to these plants?\u2019 They told me the fruit is better if it\u2019s not shaded, but I\u2019ve never found that to be true.\u201d<\/p>\n

\"This
This is what good tomato hygiene looks like. The base of the stem is free of leaves and suckers.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

The important thing, Pierson says, is to practice good tomato hygiene, removing leaves that are touching the ground to prevent soil from splashing up onto the foliage and possibly conveying diseases. This is particularly important if you\u2019ve had disease problems in the past, she says.<\/p>\n

As you snip off leaves, be careful to leave a stub of about \u00bd\u201d. This prevents cutting into the main stem, which is something that hurts the plant and can open it, literally, to problems.<\/p>\n

\"3.
Pinching away foliage — especially leaves and suckers that are close to the ground.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Higher up on the plants, \u201cyou can thin the plant for better air circulation, which helps with fungal problems,\u201d Pierson says. \u201cCut some leaves and non-fruiting branches.\u201d If it\u2019s a rainy summer, the need to promote air circulation is particularly important.<\/p>\n

Pierson occasionally prunes to control the size of indeterminate tomato plants (the varieties that tend to sprawl all over the place). \u201cWhen your \u2018Sungold\u2019 is 8 feet tall, you\u2019re going to lop it,\u201d she says. \u201cFor purposes of supporting the plant, you might also prune it.\u201d But topping a tomato plant may mean you\u2019ll lose some fruit, so think twice before you make a cut. \u201cAny time you prune the plant, you\u2019re possibly reducing production,\u201d she says.<\/p>\n

Feeding<\/strong><\/p>\n

At her house, Pierson plants most of her tomatoes in container pots, using a mix of 2\/3 potting mix and 1\/3 compost. \u201cThat\u2019s heavy to compost,\u201d she says. When she plants them in raised beds or garden beds at the farm, she also prepares the soil before planting by working in lobster compost, which helps condition the soil while adding vital nutrients. [To see our recent post on adding nutrients to the soil before planting tomatoes, scroll down.]<\/p>\n

If you\u2019ve amended your soil properly before planting, feeding your plants with fertilizer is optional. \u201cThe compost is doing most of the work,\u201d Pierson says.<\/p>\n

If you haven\u2019t amended your soil, or even if you have and would like to give your tomato plants an extra helping of nutrients, you can use fertilizer for what Pierson calls \u201ca boost that will help get heirlooms and cherries into fruit and flower sooner.\u201d<\/p>\n

In areas of the country with a short growing season, this is especially important.<\/p>\n

Choosing which fertilizer to use depends on your preferences and your growing conditions. Pierson has always relied on White Flower Farm\u2019s All-Bloom Fertilizer, a 15-30-15 formula that\u2019s high in phosphorus for root growth, and micronutrients. One of the bonuses is it won\u2019t attract critters the way fertilizers that smell like fish sometimes do. The key here is trial and error to see what works best in your garden.<\/p>\n

Fertilizer helps promote \u201cmore fruit set and earlier fruit set,\u201d Pierson says.<\/p>\n

Pierson lets tomato plants grow in the ground or in container pots for approximately 3 weeks before feeding them for the first time. Then she\u2019ll feed roughly 2 to 3 more times before the plant is actually producing. \u201cWhen the plant sets its fruit, back off feeding,\u201d she says. \u201cBack off water and back off feeding once the plant is covered in fruit. Too much water, and your cherry tomatoes will be cracking.\u201d Excess water also invites diseases.<\/p>\n

\u201cNever feed after mid-August,\u201d Pierson says, because it\u2019s the equivalent of offering someone caffeine before bedtime. At that time of year, \u201cthe plants are sensing the shortened day length. They honestly don\u2019t need anything else.\u201d<\/p>\n

Pests & Diseases<\/strong><\/p>\n

\"Septoria
Septoria Leaf Spot of Tomato. Photo courtesy of Missouri Botanical Garden.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Septoria<\/em><\/p>\n

A fungus that manifests itself as brown spots on leaves, Septoria is one of the most common conditions that can afflict tomato plants. It begins on the lower leaves and spreads upward. \u201cIf you\u2019ve had septoria in the past, when the plant gets to be 24\u201d tall, remove all foliage that\u2019s touching the ground,\u201d Pierson says. This prevents soil from splashing up onto the leaves and possibly introducing diseases.<\/p>\n

For more detailed information, visit the excellent Missouri Botanical Garden website here<\/u><\/a><\/em>.<\/p>\n

\"Blossom
Blossom end rot, photo courtesy of Missouri Botanical Garden<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Blossom End Rot<\/em><\/p>\n

These brown spots at the base of tomatoes may indicate a calcium deficiency. \u201cCalcium can be there in the soil and be unavailable because of soil pH,\u201d Pierson says. \u201cIf you have a history of having blossom end rot, make sure you\u2019re making the calcium available. It means the soil is too acid, so put in granular lime in a feed-the-chickens kind of manner [or what amounts to a couple of tablespoons].\u201d<\/p>\n

Other problems, including the moisture level of the soil and improper or excessive fertilization, also may cause blossom end rot.<\/p>\n

For more information, click here<\/a><\/u><\/em>.<\/p>\n

\"hornworm_covered-in-the-cocoons-of-a-parasitical-wasp_Photo-by-Barb-Pierson\"
Hornworm covered in the cocoons of a parasitical wasp. Photo by Barb Pierson.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Hornworms<\/em><\/p>\n

\u201cIf you see a branch with no leaves, it\u2019s probably hornworms,\u201d Pierson says. The bright green, chubby insects are sometimes hard to spot because they blend in so well with tomato stems and foliage, but the worms have diagonal white stripes on their sides and a spiked horn near their tail ends (hence the name). To rid tomato, eggplant, and pepper plants of these foragers, \u201cjust pick them off,\u201d Pierson says. You don\u2019t want to spray or use chemicals because you\u2019ll be eating food from these plants.<\/p>\n

If you see a hornworm covered in what appear to be tiny white specks, those are the white cocoons of the parasitic braconid wasp, which eventually kill their host.<\/p>\n

For more information, click here<\/a><\/u><\/em>.<\/p>\n

CUCUMBERS<\/p>\n

\u201cCucumbers are water hogs,\u201d Pierson says. \u201cIf it\u2019s hot and dry, you\u2019ve got to water.\u201d Apart from that, cukes require very little maintenance. \u201cLet them climb,\u201d Pierson says. Pick the fruit, and when the plants subside, generally in the high heat of August, \u201cjust pull them out.\u201d<\/p>\n

SQUASH<\/p>\n

A host of plants, from Phlox to Lilac, are susceptible to powdery mildew. Squash is another. Pierson recommends the \u201cold-time\u201d milk treatment, which involves diluting 1 part milk (any type from whole to skim) in 2\u20133 parts water and spraying it on the plant until the leaves are dripping. \u201cIt changes the pH of the leaf so it\u2019s not as favorable for the powdery mildew to spread. Do it preventatively and then once per week. Reapply after it rains.\u201d Pierson confesses that she doesn\u2019t bother with the milk treatment because the squash fruits are fine regardless of the mildew. The milk treatment \u201ccomes under the heading \u2018Too Much Work,\u2019\u201d she laughs.<\/p>\n

\"quash-vine-borer_Photo-courtesy-of-Missouri-Botanical-Garden.\"
Squash vine borer. Photo courtesy of Missouri Botanical Garden.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Squash borers are another story. \u201cThe borers will work their way into stems and small fruits, and start to grow. The squash turns brownish, and it will fall off and die,\u201d Pierson says. The remedy? While there are a few measures that can be taken to stop the borers, most are tedious and time-consuming. Barring the use of chemicals on your edibles, you might prefer to pull the plants, disposing of them completely (do not compost) and leaving the soil open to birds who will help clean it.<\/p>\n

For more information, click here<\/a><\/u><\/em>.<\/p>\n

LETTUCE<\/p>\n

Keep cutting lettuce for a \u201ccut-and-come-again harvest to avoid early bolting,\u201d Pierson says. Lettuce generally won\u2019t bolt \u201cunless it gets super hot. If it bolts, remove it, and plant fresh seed. You\u2019ll have good lettuce in the fall if you re-seed in mid-August.\u201d<\/p>\n

EGGPLANT & PEPPERS<\/p>\n

Eggplant and Peppers require little maintenance, perhaps just some staking as their branches, laded with fruit, get heavy.<\/p>\n

One tip for next year: both eggplant and peppers \u201clove to be planted in the collapsible potato bags,\u201d Pierson says. The black bags get warm in the sun, making the soil warmer than it is in most garden beds. \u201cThey like hot roots,\u201d she says.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

With the vegetable gardening season in full swing, we checked in with our Nursery Manager Barb Pierson to get some helpful tips on caring for edibles plants to encourage plant health and maximum yields. Here\u2019s her advice: Watering In general, with tomatoes and most other edibles, you want to water the soil, not the plant. 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